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The New Bollinger Jewellery Gallery At The V&A London
By 24 Hour Museum Staff
21/05/2008
Image: Photo of a set of jewellery consisting of a hair comb, brooch and earrings
Brooch, Comb and Earrings of enamelled gold set with cornelian intaglios. French, about 1808, made for the Empress Josephine. Private collection on loan to the V&A. Photo: V&A Images
Exhibition preview: The Bollinger Jewellery Gallery at the V&A, London (permanent, from May 24 2008).
The V&A Museum launches its decadent new jewellery gallery, sponsored by William and Judith Bollinger, this week.
While the sponsors are nothing to do with Bollinger champagne, it would be appropriate if they were, as the new gallery contains some of the most glitzy objects on show anywhere in the museum.
More than 3,500 jewels from the V&A collection are going on show in the new space, designed by Eva Jiricna. They range from pieces that reflect the splendour of courtly life in centuries past, to some of the finest designs from the great jewellery houses of the 20th century and sparkling works of art by contemporary makers.
Historic highlights include the Shannongrove Gorget – a great Celtic breast ornament from 700 BC – and diamonds worn by Catherine the Great of Russia.
Image: A diamond encrusted tiara
Tiara, French, 1913. Made by Henri Lavabre for Cartier. Private Collection on loan to the Victoria and Albert Museum. Photo: V&A Images
The age of Napoleon is represented by the famous Beauharnais Emeralds, gifted to his adopted daughter, and tiaras worn by Empress Josephine.
Dating from about 1595, the Heneage, or Armada Jewel, was a gift from Queen Elizabeth I to her Vice-Chamberlain, Sir Thomas Heneage. It is mounted with two portraits of the Queen, with the interior of its enamelled back depicting an ark that symbolises the English church riding out the wild seas of the 16th century.
Image: Photo of the interior of a modern gallery space with large glass display cases
The William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery. Photo: Edina van der Wyck
A magnificent headpiece, the Manchester Tiara (1903), is a spectacular example of the diamond-studded garland style which dominated jewellery design around the turn of the last century. It was designed by Cartier and worn by Consuelo, Duchess of Manchester, a prominent American heiress who married into British nobility.
From around the same time, an Art Nouveau orchid jewel of gold, enamel, rubies and diamonds by Philippe Wolfers of Brussels (c.1905-1907) is a fabulous hair ornament.
Image: A diamond encrusted ornament in a bow shape
Bow ornament, Russian, about 1760. Cory bequest. Photo: V&A Images
In contrast, a brooch on show, made by Peter Chang in 1992, is made of recycled acrylic and polyester.
Tiffany, Lalique and Cartier are sprinkled liberally in the display cases, in a striking modern space with a glass spiral staircase rising to a new mezzanine floor. This will certainly be the place to go to see exquisite jewellery from now on, both historical and modern. More than 140 living goldsmiths and jewellers are represented in the gallery, too.
This is a gallery preview. If you've been to see the new gallery, why not let us know what you think?
Victoria and Albert Museum
Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, South Kensington, London, SW7 2RL, England
Open: Daily 1000-1745
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Closed: 24-26 December
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