MASTER AND COMMANDER - A PATRICK O'BRIAN MUSEUM TRAIL
By Max Glaskin
30/12/2001
Left: the first Aubrey/Maturin novel, Master and Commander.
The extraordinarily popular novels of Patrick O'Brian convincingly recreate
navy life during the Napoleonic Wars, from the thunderous sea battles right
down to the weevils in the ships' biscuits.
The heroes, Captain Jack Aubrey and his particular friend Dr Stephen
Maturin, encountered numerous adventures around the world and in early 19th
century English society.
Now readers can extend the sublime literary experience of the 20 volume
series by following this trail designed especially for the 24 Hour Museum.
It's suitable for lubbers and all ratings but laggards may miss the tide
unless they hurry. There's not a moment to lose.
HMS Trincomalee, Hartlepool
A visit to Britain's oldest floating warship, HMS Trincomalee, is almost like being on board
Aubrey's first frigate, the 38-gun fifth rate HMS Lively, or on his even
smaller and beloved HMS Surprise.
Even though she was not launched until 1817, well after hostilities ended, the 46-gun Trincomalee, now moored at Hartlepool, is very similar in design to earlier ships and it is easy to imagine her crew practising their gunnery skills while Jack times them from the quarterdeck.
Frigates were the most dashing ships in the navy because they were fast and
well-armed: highly suited to Aubrey's demeanour. The Trincomalee gives a
fine insight into the cramped conditions on a warship and there is one
particularly curious coincidence worth considering as you admire the
futtockshrouds...
At the end of the 19th century the Trincomalee was renamed
the Foudroyant, after Nelson's one-time flagship and upon which a certain
(fictional) Lieutenant Jack Aubrey had served shortly before the beginning of the novel
series.
Red House Stables Working Carriage Museum, Matlock, Derbyshire
O'Brian maintains the momentum of his novels on dry land with some memorably
exhilarating carriage rides. Fortunately Caroline Dale-Leech can offer
similar experiences in the Derbyshire countryside. They are more sedate and
certainly safer than those taken by the impetuous Diana Villiers in the
books.
The museum has nearly 40 carriages available, including a stage coach, a
Royal Mail coach, a park drag and a Hansom cab. If you have the time, a
pleasant day can be spent riding to the great houses nearby, stopping at
country hostelries for appropriate refreshment. Budding Dianas may even take
lessons in driving the carriages themselves in period costume or
otherwise.
Jack Aubrey once passed the salt to Horatio Nelson, one-time commander of
this astonishing vessel, and that alone is reason enough to visit.
But our
main interest is the sickbay below decks. This is the kind of workplace of
which Dr Stephen Maturin could only dream, being spacious, light, pristine,
well-aired and as steady as a rock.
Yet it gives an excellent impression of where the ship's surgeon may have
dispensed the bolus, potable soup and tincture of laudanum to crew suffering
from the marthambles, the great pox and unbalanced humours.
And it's where
he would examine the wounded before deciding whether to saw off their
shattered limbs with ferocious-looking instruments or cut a little hole in
their skull and cover it with a beaten coin.
Portsmouth Historic Dockyard Visitor Centre, Victory Gate, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3LJ, Hampshire, England
The Historic Dockyard, Chatham
"She is a Chatham ship...she is pretty spry," said Jack Aubrey describing
HMS Bellona which he commands in The Commodore, the 17th book in the series.
And here you can see exactly how she was built by following the Wooden Walls
exhibition, a tour of some of the twenty-six trades required to build a
wooden warship.
Eleven ships of the line were built at Chatham, including HMS Victory, but
the featured vessel is the Valiant, a third-rater with the same 74 guns as
Bellona which was launched a year later in 1760. It was here also that the
great naval architect and master shipwright Robert Seppings perfected
diagonal bracing to strengthen ships.
This treasure house of naval history contains some real gems that will
inspire every O'Brian fan. The most captivating are the original cover
paintings for the Aubrey-Maturin books by artist Geoff Hunt. The museum owns
12 of the pictures and exhibits them in rotation.Right: The Ionian Mission, by Geoff Hunt, RSMA. Copyright, Royal Naval Museum.
The numerous models and displays illuminate the lexicon of O'Brian's text,
from the Articles of War, which describes capital offences, through to the
yardarm, from which offenders were hanged.
The area would have been quite
familiar to Jack and Stephen, each joining and leaving several ships in
Portsmouth harbour throughout the series of novels.
Royal Naval Museum HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3NH, Hampshire, England
Explosion! The Museum of Naval Firepower, Gosport, Hants
The Museum of Naval Firepower would astound Jack Aubrey. His love of gunnery
knew no bounds but even he could not have foreseen how marine ordnance would
develop.
Try, if you can, to ignore the 20th century atomic bomb on
exhibition, and take a look outside at Powder Quay,above.
It was here that small
boats would pick up prodigious quantities of gunpowder in wooden casks and
row it out to Jack's ship, moored safely in the middle of the harbour.
The powder was made in mills in Kent and Essex and stored in the Great Magazine at Priddy's Hard. It was only released to officers with permission
from the Ordnance Board or perhaps with a little of the captain's cash to
buy more than the official quota.
Now a peaceful and picturesque village where the Beaulieu river joins the
Solent estuary, it was, in Jack's day, a major shipyard where 50 wooden
ships were built for the navy, including four ships of the line and Nelson's
own favourite, the Agamemnon.
The exhibition of village life and its hardships in the 18th century gives a
clue as to why so many man preferred to take their chances at sea,
particularly if fortunate enough to crew a vessel commanded by 'Lucky' Jack
Aubrey.
One cottage, above, is especially relevant. Inside is shipwright Henry Adams poring
over plans under the scrutiny of an overseer from the Navy Board. As O'Brian
readers know, Jack had particular ideas about ship design and a deep
loathing of bureaucracy. He'd have befriended Adams and wasted not a moment
with the overseer.
Visitor Centre, Victory Gate, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3LJ, Hampshire, England
Open: Portsmouth Historic Dockyard is open daily.
March 2006 to October 2006 - 9.30am to 17.30 (last ticket sold 4.30pm)
November to March - 10.00am to 17.00 (last ticket sold 4pm)
Last ticket is sold 1 hour before closing.
Closed: Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day.
Please call for details of individual attraction Christmas opening hours.
The Historic Dockyard, Chatham, ME4 4TZ, Kent, England
T: 01634 823800
Open: Mid February - Last Sunday in October, daily 10.00 am to 6.00 pm (or dusk if earlier). Last entry 3pm until clocks go forward, 4pm thereafter. Open weekends only during November.
Closed: Closed during December and January
Priddy's Hard, Gosport, PO12 4LE, Hampshire, England
T: 023 9250 5600
Open: Apr-Oct: 10.00-17.30
Nov-Mar: Thursday, Saturday & Sunday only, 10.00-16.30 (last admission 1 hr before).
However, during school holidays we are open everyday:
18 Dec-4 Jan (except 24,25,26 Dec)
Closed: 24, 25, 26 December & 1 Jan
Buckler's Hard, Beaulieu, Brockenhurst, SO42 7XB, Hampshire, England
Open: The attraction is open every day of the year except Christmas Day as indicated below. The last admission each day is 40 minutes prior to closing time.
10 am until 6.00 pm - May to September
10 am until 5.00 pm - October to April
Closed: Christmas Day