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November 22 2008
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MASTER AND COMMANDER - A PATRICK O'BRIAN MUSEUM TRAIL
By Max Glaskin 30/12/2001

Left: the first Aubrey/Maturin novel, Master and Commander.

The extraordinarily popular novels of Patrick O'Brian convincingly recreate navy life during the Napoleonic Wars, from the thunderous sea battles right down to the weevils in the ships' biscuits.

The heroes, Captain Jack Aubrey and his particular friend Dr Stephen Maturin, encountered numerous adventures around the world and in early 19th century English society.

Now readers can extend the sublime literary experience of the 20 volume series by following this trail designed especially for the 24 Hour Museum. It's suitable for lubbers and all ratings but laggards may miss the tide unless they hurry. There's not a moment to lose.

Stern of HMS Trincomalee

HMS Trincomalee, Hartlepool

A visit to Britain's oldest floating warship, HMS Trincomalee, is almost like being on board Aubrey's first frigate, the 38-gun fifth rate HMS Lively, or on his even smaller and beloved HMS Surprise.

Even though she was not launched until 1817, well after hostilities ended, the 46-gun Trincomalee, now moored at Hartlepool, is very similar in design to earlier ships and it is easy to imagine her crew practising their gunnery skills while Jack times them from the quarterdeck.

Cannon on Trincomalee
Trincomalee overall

Frigates were the most dashing ships in the navy because they were fast and well-armed: highly suited to Aubrey's demeanour. The Trincomalee gives a fine insight into the cramped conditions on a warship and there is one particularly curious coincidence worth considering as you admire the futtockshrouds...

At the end of the 19th century the Trincomalee was renamed the Foudroyant, after Nelson's one-time flagship and upon which a certain (fictional) Lieutenant Jack Aubrey had served shortly before the beginning of the novel series.

HMS Trincomalee Trust
Jackson Dock, Hartlepool, TS24 0SQ, Cleveland, England

Red House Stables Working Carriage Museum, Matlock, Derbyshire

O'Brian maintains the momentum of his novels on dry land with some memorably exhilarating carriage rides. Fortunately Caroline Dale-Leech can offer similar experiences in the Derbyshire countryside. They are more sedate and certainly safer than those taken by the impetuous Diana Villiers in the books.

The museum has nearly 40 carriages available, including a stage coach, a Royal Mail coach, a park drag and a Hansom cab. If you have the time, a pleasant day can be spent riding to the great houses nearby, stopping at country hostelries for appropriate refreshment. Budding Dianas may even take lessons in driving the carriages themselves ­ in period costume or otherwise.

Red House Stables Working Carriage Museum
Old Road, Darley Dale, Matlock, DE4 2ER, Derbyshire, England

HMS Victory, Portsmouth

Jack Aubrey once passed the salt to Horatio Nelson, one-time commander of this astonishing vessel, and that alone is reason enough to visit.

But our main interest is the sickbay below decks. This is the kind of workplace of which Dr Stephen Maturin could only dream, being spacious, light, pristine, well-aired and as steady as a rock.

Yet it gives an excellent impression of where the ship's surgeon may have dispensed the bolus, potable soup and tincture of laudanum to crew suffering from the marthambles, the great pox and unbalanced humours.

And it's where he would examine the wounded before deciding whether to saw off their shattered limbs with ferocious-looking instruments or cut a little hole in their skull and cover it with a beaten coin.

Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
Visitor Centre, Victory Gate, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3LJ, Hampshire, England

The Historic Dockyard, Chatham

"She is a Chatham ship...she is pretty spry," said Jack Aubrey describing HMS Bellona which he commands in The Commodore, the 17th book in the series. And here you can see exactly how she was built by following the Wooden Walls exhibition, a tour of some of the twenty-six trades required to build a wooden warship.

Eleven ships of the line were built at Chatham, including HMS Victory, but the featured vessel is the Valiant, a third-rater with the same 74 guns as Bellona which was launched a year later in 1760. It was here also that the great naval architect and master shipwright Robert Seppings perfected diagonal bracing to strengthen ships.

The Historic Dockyard Chatham
The Historic Dockyard, Chatham, ME4 4TZ, Kent, England

Royal Naval Museum, Portsmouth

This treasure house of naval history contains some real gems that will inspire every O'Brian fan. The most captivating are the original cover paintings for the Aubrey-Maturin books by artist Geoff Hunt. The museum owns 12 of the pictures and exhibits them in rotation.

Right: The Ionian Mission, by Geoff Hunt, RSMA. Copyright, Royal Naval Museum.

The numerous models and displays illuminate the lexicon of O'Brian's text, from the Articles of War, which describes capital offences, through to the yardarm, from which offenders were hanged.

The area would have been quite familiar to Jack and Stephen, each joining and leaving several ships in Portsmouth harbour throughout the series of novels.

Royal Naval Museum
HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3NH, Hampshire, England

Explosion! The Museum of Naval Firepower, Gosport, Hants

The Museum of Naval Firepower would astound Jack Aubrey. His love of gunnery knew no bounds but even he could not have foreseen how marine ordnance would develop.

Try, if you can, to ignore the 20th century atomic bomb on exhibition, and take a look outside at Powder Quay,above.

It was here that small boats would pick up prodigious quantities of gunpowder in wooden casks and row it out to Jack's ship, moored safely in the middle of the harbour.

The powder was made in mills in Kent and Essex and stored in the Great Magazine at Priddy's Hard. It was only released to officers with permission from the Ordnance Board ­ or perhaps with a little of the captain's cash to buy more than the official quota.

Explosion! The Museum of Naval Firepower
Priddy's Hard, Gosport, PO12 4LE, Hampshire, England

Buckler's Hard, Hants

Now a peaceful and picturesque village where the Beaulieu river joins the Solent estuary, it was, in Jack's day, a major shipyard where 50 wooden ships were built for the navy, including four ships of the line and Nelson's own favourite, the Agamemnon.

The exhibition of village life and its hardships in the 18th century gives a clue as to why so many man preferred to take their chances at sea, particularly if fortunate enough to crew a vessel commanded by 'Lucky' Jack Aubrey.

One cottage, above, is especially relevant. Inside is shipwright Henry Adams poring over plans under the scrutiny of an overseer from the Navy Board. As O'Brian readers know, Jack had particular ideas about ship design and a deep loathing of bureaucracy. He'd have befriended Adams and wasted not a moment with the overseer.

The Maritime Museum, Buckler's Hard
Buckler's Hard, Beaulieu, Brockenhurst, SO42 7XB, Hampshire, England

Websites worth visiting on the trail of Jack Aubrey and Stephen Maturin :

www.hmssurprise.org - an inspiring site for O'Brian devotees

www.io.com/gibbonsb/pob/ - an all-embracing compendium of O'Brian sites

www.aubreymaturin.co.uk - organisers of trips and events associated with Jack and Stephen's adventures

http://williamcalvin.com/bookshelf/POB.htm - for an appreciation of the Aubrey-Maturin novels and some particularly commendable extracts

www.theorlopdeck.org - devoted to historical naval surgery

www.btinternet.com/~lawrence.edwards/tallships/pob/pob.htm - Tall ships fan Lawrence Edward's Patrick O'Brian page.

Max Glaskin is an award-winning freelance journalist regularly published in the Sunday Times, New Scientist and many other national publications.

HMS Trincomalee Trust
 

Jackson Dock, Hartlepool, TS24 0SQ, Cleveland, England

Red House Stables Working Carriage Museum
 

Old Road, Darley Dale, Matlock, DE4 2ER, Derbyshire, England

Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
 

Visitor Centre, Victory Gate, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3LJ, Hampshire, England
Open: Portsmouth Historic Dockyard is open daily. March 2006 to October 2006 - 9.30am to 17.30 (last ticket sold 4.30pm) November to March - 10.00am to 17.00 (last ticket sold 4pm) Last ticket is sold 1 hour before closing.
Closed: Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Please call for details of individual attraction Christmas opening hours.

The Historic Dockyard Chatham
 

The Historic Dockyard, Chatham, ME4 4TZ, Kent, England
T: 01634 823800
Open: Mid February - Last Sunday in October, daily 10.00 am to 6.00 pm (or dusk if earlier). Last entry 3pm until clocks go forward, 4pm thereafter. Open weekends only during November.
Closed: Closed during December and January

Royal Naval Museum
 

HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3NH, Hampshire, England
Open: April-October Daily 1000-1700 November-March Daily 1000-1630 Closed 25 26 December

Explosion! The Museum of Naval Firepower
 

Priddy's Hard, Gosport, PO12 4LE, Hampshire, England
T: 023 9250 5600
Open: Apr-Oct: 10.00-17.30 Nov-Mar: Thursday, Saturday & Sunday only, 10.00-16.30 (last admission 1 hr before). However, during school holidays we are open everyday: 18 Dec-4 Jan (except 24,25,26 Dec)
Closed: 24, 25, 26 December & 1 Jan

The Maritime Museum, Buckler's Hard
 

Buckler's Hard, Beaulieu, Brockenhurst, SO42 7XB, Hampshire, England
Open: The attraction is open every day of the year except Christmas Day as indicated below. The last admission each day is 40 minutes prior to closing time. 10 am until 6.00 pm - May to September 10 am until 5.00 pm - October to April
Closed: Christmas Day