Whenever I say I’m from Birmingham, people think of dodgy accents and a dirty city. It is true my accent does give away where I’m from. People from the UK have a negative reaction to Birmingham accents; and in a way if you have a strong accent it can be embarrassing. You might think it would be better not to have an accent at all, or to have a Southern accent.
But would you feel that way if your accent made people think about history and culture or art and politics? If it reminded listeners of a city where each community has its own identity but everyone mixes, where people say good morning to each other on the train, or apologise if they knock into you? Where you can eat in a different curry house every night of the week all year, or where world leaders meet to discuss global issues?
My accent should make people think of those things, because that’s what Birmingham is all about.
I’ve got into arguments with my friends in London about how good my city actually is, and I feel like I’ve got to prove something to them about the city. But all they would have to do would be to get on the train from Euston, travel for an hour and a half (the time it sometimes takes from Kings Cross to Heathrow on the Piccadilly Line), and just beyond Birmingham New Street station, they would have to agree with me – Birmingham is where it’s at.
To really appreciate the beauty of the city, you should do this city walk. It takes 45 minutes to an hour – if you can avoid all the many distractions on the way! The best time to do it is in the evening, just when the sun is going down.
A short walk from the station is the Council House, an old building that used to be the very centre of the city. It is lit up with blue lights as dusk falls. It gives a sense of Birmingham’s graceful history and provides a contrast to the new architecture that has sprung up in the last ten years.
The building has survived the world wars and the huge changes that have swept through the city. It stands in Victoria Square with a bronze statue of Queen Victoria by its side.
The Town Hall is also in the square and all these imposing buildings are still in use today. In the centre of the square the fountain might be the perfect place to sit and have a sandwich or bathe your feet on a hot day. At Christmas the square is transformed into a traditional Frankfurt arts, crafts and foods market, because Birmingham is twinned with Frankfurt.
Birmingham is a very forward thinking city, and environmentally aware. The centre is pedestrianised, with accessibility for all in mind. Wide streets connect the squares; next you will find yourself in Chamberlain Square, where the central library is housed in a Sixties building and is open to everybody.
In Centenary Square, which is connected by a walkway through the library, you might find a free concert or an art festival, or a spot to sit on the grass and watch the world go by. The War Memorial and the famous Birmingham Rep are in the square – the International Conference Centre (ICC) and the Symphony Hall are also here.
So much culture all in one place! This square is also where the Flame of Hope stays lit. It was donated by the churches of Birmingham to the people of the city to mark the millennium.
The walk continues through the ICC with its bright and airy glass roof. You come out into Brindley Place, where the canals that criss-cross the country meet. It’s a fresh and green place, with bridges that cross the canal, and you can see all the main buildings lit up, with lights reflected in the water. There are more miles of canals in Birmingham than there are in Venice! People come to enjoy the atmosphere and the live bands that play in the evening.
There are two main squares, both of which have interesting and beautiful architecture, for example, the arches of the Regus Building, or the water features in Oozelles Square. You might stop for a drink or some food in Brindley Place, where you will find Italian, Chinese, and traditional pub food.
To walk it off, you can carry on down onto the canal side and head towards Gas Street Basin. To get there you have to go underneath Broad Street through a low-level tunnel where you have to crouch down, and when you come out the other side, you might think you’ve been travelling backwards in time through the tunnel.
Because this is where old Birmingham shows itself, with canal boats moored up and the perfect place for cream teas and traditional coffee; in fact the quaint cottage is actually the old tollhouse. It stands preserved between Brindley Place and the exclusive Mailbox – the old Royal Mail sorting office. This has now been transformed into a chic apartment complex where flats sell for £1.5m.
There is a posh hotel and you can shop or window shop at Harvey Nichols, Emporio Armani and DKNY and other shops you might think only exist in Knightsbridge, London. This is a great place for a cocktail; it is also the newest home of the BBC.
Coming to the end of the walk, you go under a bridge – which you might think is a really boring Sixties structure, but walk underneath and you will find it hung with Chinese lanterns which create a beautiful magical surprise.
I’ve done this walk so many times but I always see something different on it. When I walk it, I feel emotional, because I can remember what it was like 10 years ago – all warehouses and factories. There were lots of derelict areas that needed a lot of work.
The whole city has seen a lot of regeneration and I feel very proud of the city – and to be a Brummie! It is great to see the art and the architecture, and best of all to see people enjoying themselves. The feel-good factor has come back to the city.
The walk is the best way to get your bearings, and the next day you can go back and visit all the places that take your fancy. It gives you a sense of how special Birmingham really is; it takes in all its history, and combines the traditional and the modern. And that’s just the West side!
On the East side, there’s the Bullring shopping centre, where those who love modern architecture can marvel over the new Selfridges building. It is futuristic and funky. All of this area is really modern, but in its heart sits the old church of St Martin, with its elegant spire and clock tower. This is a great example of how old and new coexist in harmony in the city.
Walkways on either side of the church lead to the Markets. Walk on the left hand side and you will come into Digbeth, where the Irish quarter still is, and the old Birds Eye custard factory, which was built in 1904. Some parts still have the original beams and thatching on the roof.
The building has been revamped to house trendy shops, bars and boutique hotels. There is a lake in the middle, with one wall built of crushed cars; a modern tribute to the industrial heritage of the city, and its geographical position in the centre of England, the place where all the major motorways meet.
On the other side of St Martin’s, the walkway will lead you to the famous Birmingham Markets - a key part of the heritage of the city. There are fish and meat markets, but also clothes, music and film stalls, perfect for Saturday morning browsing.
Another historic quarter of the city is the Jewellery Quarter – where all the jewellery for England used to be franked, and there are many jewellery shops where precious gems are bought and sold. There are great deals on silver and gold too. In this quarter you can see some of the original “work-houses” that used to exist.
The whole city has a lot of energy, it is very young and trendy, but there are so many places to be quiet and relax as well. One of my favourites is the Ikon Gallery where I go when I want some down time.
I want to go to university where I can go out any time of night and there will be something open, where there is a nice atmosphere and you can walk around the city and there is a lot to see and do. Although I want to go away for university, I want to go somewhere like Birmingham.
If you have chosen Birmingham for university or you are thinking about going to visit: it is cheap to live, there are always things to do and you could never get bored. One of the best things about it is that no matter who you are or where you are from, you won’t feel out of place.
Children’s Express is a programme of learning through journalism for young people aged eight to 18. www.childrens-express.org
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